Climbing
Mountain guide Brent Okita reached the summit of Mount Rainier for the 600th time on Friday, setting a new world record for the most ascents of Washington’s highest peak, according to RMI Expeditions. At 64 years old, Okita is now the only person known to have climbed the 14,410-foot mountain that many times. A professional guide since 1986, he completed the milestone ascent with a group of climbers in clear weather conditions.
“It feels great,” Okita said from the summit in a video posted by RMI. “We have perfect weather up here and a perfect group, and I couldn’t be happier.”
Mount Rainier, an active stratovolcano in the Cascade Range, is widely considered one of the most physically and logistically demanding climbs in the lower 48 states. Its heavily glaciated slopes and rapidly changing conditions require both technical skill and local experience—something Okita has spent nearly four decades developing.
Okita began guiding for Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. in the mid-1980s and has since led clients on climbs around the world, including Mount Everest, Denali, and Vinson Massif. He also participated in the 2001 Mallory-Irvine Search Expedition on Everest’s North Ridge. Despite his accomplishments abroad, Okita has long considered Rainier his home mountain.
When asked what’s next, Okita’s answer was simple: “More climbing, more Mount Rainier—it’s what I do.”
His experience extends beyond guiding. During the winter season, Okita serves as the director of ski patrol at Crystal Mountain Resort. He lives in Enumclaw, Washington, with his wife, Julie. In a brief message to future climbers and guides, Okita emphasized the importance of attentiveness. “Climbers, pay attention to your guides. Guides, pay attention to what’s happening out there… It’s the details that really matter.”
Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. was founded in 1969 by mountaineer Lou Whittaker, and has grown into one of the most prominent guide services in the country. According to the company, Okita’s milestone reflects not only personal endurance but a long-standing commitment to safety and leadership in the mountains. For photos and more details on Okita’s 600th ascent, RMI has published a blog post on its website.
