Chile Surf & Culture Report: Surfing with Penguins…

Miles Clark | | Post Tag for SurfSurf
Punta de Lobos, October 7th, 2014.  photo:  tu sesion
Punta de Lobos, October 7th, 2014. photo: tu sesion

Yesterday, I surfed with Penguins.  Three of them.  I was waiting for a wave and three of ’em popped out of the water and just stared at me.  I stared back and paddled closer while feeling confused yet in absolute awe.  After about 3 minutes, they dove, never to be seen again…  The coolest thing that’s happened to me in surfing.  (If I had to guess, they were Magellanic Penguins)

Myself and a Magellanic Penguin in Argentina in 2011.
Myself and a Magellanic Penguin in Argentina in 2011.

Ok, now it’s time to get more objective.

Wind surfer going off today.
Wind surfer going off today.

I arrived in Punta de Lobos, Chile a few days ago.  The first two days, the waves were pumping.  This place is simply mechanical.  It’s a happy, rolling wave with a couple potential barrel sections and it can be long.  Real long on the right wave.  Nearly a kilometer long on the right wave.

cactus, flores, y mar.
cactus, flores, mar, y kite surfer.

Tuesday was about head high and smooth and great.  Wednesday was about the same but maybe even more fun.  Yesterday, things backed off a bit and I surfed the wrong tide (low tide is better here) but still had fun.  Today appears to be about the same as yesterday size and shape wise.

Looking at the inside section where a few guys were hiding inside form the wind today.
Looking at the inside section where a few guys were hiding inside form the wind yesterday.

A vicious wind has been blowing since Wednesday night.  The large cliff just south of the wave blocks the big south winds and keeps the wave glassy – for the most part.

Slash at Lobos today.
Slash at Lobos yesterday.

Yesterday afternoon, the strong winds made for a great show as a guy on a wind surfer was absolutely crushing it.  Stomping front flips, slashing waves, ripping back and forth with speed.

Flores y mar.
Flores y mar.

Some kite surfers were out as well having a blast.

Barrell.
Barrel yesterday.

The only somewhat negative thing I can say about this place is that it’s damn cold.  I repeat, damn cold.  Air temps have been in the 50s, ripping cold winds, some overcast days, and the water is about 52ºF.  It’s not providing the relief I was hoping for after 9 weeks in the snow in Bariloche, but the wave is incredible and extremely consistent, so there is no room for complaints.

I’m looking forward to my three weeks here killing time before a quick ski trip to Antarctica in early November.

PHOTO TOUR:

Ripping up wind.
Ripping up wind.
This was a cool spin that didn't quite work.
This was a cool spin that didn’t quite work.
Cactus and an empty peak.
Cactus and an empty peak.
African iceplant in South America.
African iceplant in South America.
Pancake shop and cacti.
Pancake shop and cacti.
Cactus bloom.
Cactus bloom.
Cactus plants flowering in the lineup.
Cactus plants flowering in the lineup.
Everything abloom right now.
Everything abloom right now.
What a local food truck looks like.
What a local food truck looks like.
Smooth.
Smooth.
Kite surfer and oceanic shimmer.
Kite surfer and oceanic shimmer.
Yucca plant and local pulling into a barrel today.
Yucca plant and local pulling into a barrel today.
Two kite surfers were tearing up today.
Two kite surfers were tearing up today.
In case of Tidal Wave, run thissa way!
In case of Tidal Wave, run thissa way!

Wind surfer crushing it for hours today.

Wind surfer crushing it for hours today.


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2 thoughts on “Chile Surf & Culture Report: Surfing with Penguins…

  1. looks amazing down there. And I’m super stoked on the kite surfers and wind surfers. I want to learn how to do at least one of those at some point in my life.the surfing as usual it’s amazing and I know you got some sweet rides

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