Report from October 29 & 30, 2023
Extremely rough weather sent us home from Antarctica early.
Our last ski day was a bluebird powder day on October 24 at Port Lockroy.
Since that day it’s been nothing but heavy wind, big seas, and vicious storms.
Day #28 & 29 Details:
- Miles Driven: 0 (drove up to Martial Glacier and back each day, but we aren’t counting that)
- Total Miles Driven: 2,112
- Total Miles Boated: 2,124
- Total Miles Traveled: 4,236
- Hours of Driving: 0
- Latitude: 54.8ºS
- Good Food Eaten: Good empanadas at El Mercado
- Lodging: Airbnb in “Infinite Sky” building in Ushuaia – very nice
We weren’t able to ski anywhere on the Antarctic Peninsula on October 25 (Day #8 of the Antarctica Trip & Day #22 of the Patagonia to Antarctica Safari).
Our captain steamed us up to the South Shetland Islands hoping for better weather and planning an early exit from Antarctica back to South America on October 26.
The wind and waves kept us on the boat that day as well…
On October 26, the captain made the decision to send it home to avoid ending up in the teeth of 2 storms raging through the Drak Passage.
3 days on the Drake was rough but manageable.
We arrived in the Beagle Channel on October 28, waited for our pilot, and finally docked back in Ushuaia, Argentina on the morning of October 29.
My plan was to ski.
I jumped off the boat with Jason Champion and my client and friend Boris for a ski on the Marital Glacier in Ushuaia.
We skied a mellow run with Chris Davenport’s crew to feel out conditions.
Boris had to bail after 1 run to join Greggy and Sasha to drive to Punta Arenas, Chile for his flight home.
Greggy and Sasha would then drive “Sendy” all the way back to Santiago, Chile…
Jason and I upped the ante a bit and skied a more challenging zone and the skiing was fun!
Crusty, spring powder.
We went back up for a final lap and a storm started to rage.
Snowing an inch per hour with a thick fog.
We ripped that final third run all the way back to the parking lot.
I went back to the boat, grabbed my gear and taxied to an Airbnb and got ready for an early morning.
On October 30, I woke up at 4:35am and prepped for the day.
The Plan:
- Ski the Godoy Central Couloir with fellow guides Jessa and Jason
- Taxi back to the Airbnb, shower, change clothes, pack
- Taxi to airport for flight at 1:15pm
- Fly Ushuaia to Buenos Aires to Lima to Houston to Salt Lake City and take Lyft to Park City
We were hiking uphill by 6:38am.
I led the charge as I was the only one who’d skied the chute before and the only one with a flight that afternoon.
The skinning was easy right to the base of the chute on funky, styrofoam snow.
At the base of the chute, we started booting up.
I led the first two-thirds or so then Jessa shot up the final pitch like a rocket.
The top section of the chute was nothing but rime ice and still fun.
The chute proper held wind-crusted, very skiable powder.
I charged to the bottom and watched Jessa and Jason shred.
From there, I said goodbye and bolted for the parking lot and my cab scheduled at 10:15am.
I was able to ski down quite a way on the new 2″ of snow on gravel.
I made it to the lot at 10:17am and headed to the Airbnb.
Quick shower, change, and pack.
Made it to the airport by 11:15am and got good seats on my first 2 flights with Aerolineas Argentinas.
They charged me $150USD for my 2nd bag (bandits!) but they were using the offical rate for dollars (350) instead of the normal black market rate (900) so I changed money (for 800 pesos to $1USD) and got the fee down to about $60.
From there it was the long 30-hour travel home and I got home feeling wasted and like a piece of lead.
I rested all the rest of the day yesterday and this morning, I’m off to Alta for day #274 of my “300” project.
I only have 27 days left to ski before December 8, 2023.
Thanks, Argentina!
4,200-Mile Patagonia to Antarctica Safari 2023
- Day #1 = Bariloche to Skiing La Hoya in Esquel, Argentina
- Day #2 = Esquel, ARG to Puyuhuapi, Chile | Flipping Our Raft in Class IV Rapids
- Day #3 = Puyuhuapi, Chile to Coyhaique Chile | Jungle Hike to Hanging Glacier Waterfall
- Day #4 = Coyhaique, Chile → Puerta Rio Tranquila, Chile | Skiing El Fraile & The Ripping Winds of Cerro Castillo
- Day #5 = Puerta Rio Tranquila, Chile → Perito Moreno, Argentina | The Legendary Marble Caves of Lake General Carrera
- Day #6 = Perito Moreno, ARG → El Chalten, ARG | Flamingos & Fuzzy Llamas
- Day #7 = Skiing Powder on Cerro Creston in El Chalten, Argentina in the Shadow of the Fitz Roy Towers
- Day #8 = Getting Married Under 10,262′ Cerro Torre in El Chalten, Argentina
- Day #9 = Skiing Cerro Vespignani in El Chalten, ARG With The Fitz Roy Towers in Our Faces
- Day #10 & 11 = El Chalten, ARG to Rio Gallegos, ARG to Ushuaia, ARG | Guanacos on the Fence, Rheas, Crossing The Straights of Magellan
- Day #12-15 = A Trip to the ER, Guide Training, & Skiing in Tierra Del Fuego, ARG
- Antarctica Ski Trip 2023 | Day #1 = Deception Island – Orcas, Penguins, & Corn in an Active Volcano
- Antarctica Ski Trip 2023 | Day #2 = Portal Point & “The Blue Room” – Fierce Sunshine & Wild Terrain
- Antarctica Ski Trip 2023 | Day #3 = Nansen Island in a Fierce Blizzard, Grease Ice, and Significant Avalanches
- Antarctica Ski Trip 2023 | Day #4 = 60 cm of Rodeo Powder
- Days #28 & #29 = Skiing Powder Above The Sea in Tierra Del Fuego