3,600-Mile Patagonia to Antarctica Safari | Day #12-15 = A Trip to the ER, Guide Training, & Skiing in Tierra Del Fuego, ARG

Miles Clark | | Post Tag for Conditions ReportConditions ReportPost Tag for Trip ReportTrip Report

Report from October 15-18, 2023

Day #12 – 15 Details:

  • Miles Driven:  0 (drove up to Martial Glacier and back each day, but we aren’t counting that)
  • Total Miles Driven: 2,112
  • Hours of Driving:  0
  • Latitude:  54.8ºS
  • Good Food Eaten:  Karma – chocolate almond dessert/everything…
  • Lodging: Random Airbnb in Rio Gallegos – Finisterre in Ushuaia

October 15

Skiing the Martial Glacier Zone

Got up and out on a sunny day in Ushuaia, Argentina, and headed to the Martial Glacier.

We were a bit late, so we followed the sun and ended up high in the zone on a north facing slope.

As the slope steepened we switched from skins to booting.

Near the top of the little chute we were in, the snow became isothermal and we were postholing to our waists.

This is a strong sign of unstable snow so we stopped where we were and skied down.

We stumbled on great corn snow and even ended up finding a little spice on the way down.

Greggy and Sasha. | Image: SnowBrains

Greggy and I were stoked.

We hadn’t skied anything spicy since Bariloche – 2,112 miles ago…

Thanks, Argentina!

Ushuaia, Argentina. | Image: SnowBrains

October 16

Turning Around on Godoy

Greggy and I got out early and headed for my favorite chute in Tierra del Fuego named the “Central Godoy Chute.”

The weather was cool, windy, and a bit cloudy.

The snow was firm on the approach.

We decided to continue one in hopes of a miracle.

Ushuaia, Argentina. | Image: SnowBrains

It didn’t happen…

We made it to the base of the chute and the snow was as hard as a rock.

We made the safe call and turned around and headed home.

Greggy on drugs after dislocating his shoulder. | Image: SnowBrains

October 17

Guide Training & a Dislocated Shoulder

Guide training started at 8am with a presentation and orientation.

This is my eight ski-guiding trip to Antarctica with Ice Axe Expeditions and each and every trip has been an honor.

This trip has truly changed my life…

Greggy with his shoulder out in a makeshift sling. | Image: SnowBrains

After some classroom training, we headed up to the skate park in town for some practicals.

The 30 guides on the trip were broken up into 10 groups and we each displayed and discussed a topic such as:

  • Roping up
  • Ski guiding techniques
  • Crevasse rescue
  • more
Godoy Central Couloir. | Image: SnowBrains

Once guide training was completed I ran up to the Martial Glacier for my ski day #266 of my “300” project.

I didn’t get far, however…

I got word on my phone that Greggy had hurt his shoulder and was on his way down.

Ushuaia, Argentina. | Image: SnowBrains

I’d only gotten a short way up the trail when I encountered Greggy in a lot of pain with his arm in a makeshift sling.

I quickly diagnosed that it was a dislocated shoulder, and went to work attempting to put it back in.

It had already been an hour since it was out and his muscles were too tight to pop it back in easily, and we were only 5 minutes from the parking lot so I made the decision to head straight to the hospital.

Guide training. | Image: SnowBrains

I made a quick sling and swath from from ski jackets and off we went.

Greggy’s pain was through the roof by the time we got to the Clinica San Jorge 20 minutes later.

I alerted personnel of our situation and they took him in quickly.

The old ski lift. | Image: SnowBrains

We got morphine, the shoulder reduced, drug prescriptions, 12 stitches, an MRI scheduled, and a brace all in under 4 hours.

Greggy was feeling much better and we all went out to dinner happy.

We went to a place called Kalma and the food was out of this world.

Kalma restaurant. | Image: SnowBrains

The best dessert I’ve had in my life I think:

  • Vanilla ice cream
  • Some sort of firm chocolate crumbles
  • Roasted almonds
  • Olive oil

Sensational food!

We were all optimistic that Greggy would still be able to ski on the Antarctica trip.

Carpaccio at Kalma restaurant. | Image: SnowBrains

October 18

Glacier Training

We got out about noon and I took Sasha and Boris to the Martial Glacier for glacier training.

We trained rope travel, ice axe self-arrest, walking in boot crampons, walking in ski crampons, and avalanche rescue.

After that we headed to the Ice Axe Expeditions welcome dinner in town.

Ushuaia, Argentina. | Image: SnowBrains

It was fun to booze and schmooze and I even had an Aperol Spritz.

We went to bed knowing that on the next day, we board the Ocean Albatros ship and set sail for Antarctica…

Thanks, Argentina!

3,600-Mile Patagonia to Antarctica Safari 2023

Photos

Greggy skinning up. | Image: SnowBrains
Ushuaia, Argentina. | Image: SnowBrains
Greggy skinning up, Ushuaia, Argentina. | Image: SnowBrains
Sasha skinning up, Ushuaia, Argentina. | Image: SnowBrains
Up high at on the Martial Glacier, Argentina. | Image: SnowBrains
Four ski straps to fix skins. | Image: SnowBrains
Ushuaia, Argentina. | Image: SnowBrains
Tall ship in the harbor at Ushuaia, Argentina. | Image: SnowBrains
The Beagle Channel. | Image: SnowBrains
Dona Lupita restaurant, Usuaia, Argentina. | Image: SnowBrains
Science Police! | Image: SnowBrains
The Science Police! | Image: SnowBrains
Guide training in Argentina. | Image: SnowBrains
Guide training. | Image: SnowBrains
Guide training. | Image: SnowBrains
Guide training. | Image: SnowBrains
Guide training. | Image: SnowBrains
Central Godoy Chute from the hospital. | Image: SnowBrains
Kalma restaurant. | Image: SnowBrains
Kalma restaurant. | Image: SnowBrains
Kalma restaurant. | Image: SnowBrains
Kalma restaurant. | Image: SnowBrains
Kalma restaurant. | Image: SnowBrains
Kalma restaurant. | Image: SnowBrains
Kalma restaurant. | Image: SnowBrains
Ushuaia, Argentina. | Image: SnowBrains
Street art around Ushuaia, Argentina. | Image: SnowBrains
Sasha likes it! | Image: SnowBrains

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