Report from October 6, 2023

Yesterday we awoke in Puyuhaupi, Chile – a tiny coastal town founded by Germans in 1935.

We hopped on the legendary Carretera Austral (southern highway) and headed south.

Not far outta town, we stumbled upon La Cascada Ventiquero Colgante – an epic handing glacier with waterfalls.

Day #3 Details:

• Miles Driven:  145
• Total Miles Driven: 530
• Hours of Driving:  4
• Latitude:  44.3ºS to 45.6ºS
• Good Food Eaten:  Cervezaria D’olbek – Tartaro Atun (Tuna tower), Cheeseburger

 

A 3.3km jungle hike is the price of entry.

Pythonic roots, 6′ long ferns, 5″ moss growing off of trees, and life growing on top of life growing on top of life.

We even saw a Magellanic Woodpecker, the 2nd largest woodpecker on Earth.

The hike was mesmerizing.

The sheer amount of life is almost intimidating.

After 40-minutes we made it to the viewing platform and the vista didn’t disappoint.

A large, low-elevation hanging glacier gave way to 2 streaming waterfalls both having their veils tossed around by the fierce Patagonian winds.

We stared and exclaimed.

Pondered and stood in silence.

Eventually we slippery slid our way back down the mountain and threw a buttonhook to the charcoal-green lake for another look at the waterfall and glacier.

Boat rides were only $12 each.

I was tempted…

Instead, we opted to remount the road and continue south.

We slithered up switchbacks up and over the pass where the jungle reached out for us from the banks of the road.

On the other side, the jungle quickly thinned.

But not much.

Even that slight surrender made me feel better.

I’m not used to the jungle and its intensity had me on edge.

The mountains were sheer, snow-covered, and avalanche-sheathed.

We bumbled up and down dirt and paved roads until we arrived in a large valley bordered by tall mountains on both sides.

Thank goodness Mañihuales had gas…

Puyuhuapi had no gas and charged through the morning on a half tank.

The views everywhere were breathtaking.

There are no people, no towns, no infrastructure.

Fortunately, Chile makes very good roads.

Even the dirt roads are smooth.

We continued on until Coyhaique where we intended to rest.

We went out to dinner at Cervezaria D’olbek.

The Tartaro Atun and burgers were great.

Sleep came quick and easy.

Today, we adventured very deep into Chilean Patagonia and even skied along the way.

Tomorrow, we hope to kayak the marble caves.

Thanks, Chile!

3,600-Mile Patagonia to Antarctica Road/Boat Trip 2023